Introducing your cat to other cats and dogs

Bringing a new cat or kitten into your home and introducing it to your resident cat or dog can be quite nerve racking. You want them all to get on together and welcome the new feline into the house, but this seldom happens quite so easily - even though your reason for getting another cat may be to keep your resident cat company, it may not rush out and welcome the newcomer with open paws! Careful introductions can help to smooth the way towards harmonious merging of animals - controlling the situation rather than leaving the animals to sort it out for themselves will give a much better chance of a smooth meeting and the best possible start together.

Introducing cats and dogs

Remember that cats do not need to be social creatures - unlike the pack-orientated dog they function happily on their own without a social structure around them. They are unlikely to feel the 'need' for a companion even though you would wish to have another cat around. You cannot force cats to like each other - some will live with a newcomer easily, others will never get on or they may just manage to live alongside each other in an uneasy truce - you can only try. However, if there is no competition for food or safe sleeping places (as in most good homes) then cats will accept each other eventually and some will even seem to form close bonds with one another.

While it may be a matter of feline choice as to whether cats get on, how you introduce a new cat or kitten into your home and to a resident cat or cats can make the difference between success or failure. Once a relationship becomes violent or very fearful and the cat feels threatened it can be very difficult to change the behaviour patterns. Thus careful introductions which prevent excessive reactions and take things slowly are vital.

Here are some factors involved in bringing cats together successfully:

Adults or Kittens?

A kitten is less of a threat to a resident cat than an adult cat because it is still sexually immature. It can also be better to get a kitten of the opposite sex to the resident cat to minimise competition. Neutering helps to remove most of such problems, but may not eliminate them altogether. If you are getting an adult cat again it can be better to bring in one of the opposite sex.

Timing

Choose a quiet time when the household is calm - avoid festivities, parties, visiting relatives or friends and find time to concentrate on calm reassurance for both cats.

Smell is important

Remember that scent is the most important of the cat's senses in terms of communication and well-being. You can try and integrate the new cat into your home and make it less alien by getting it to smell of 'home' before you introduce it to the resident cat. To do this stroke each cat without washing your hands and mix scents in this way. You can also gather scents from around the cat's head area by gently stroking it with a soft cloth and dabbing it around your home and furniture to mix and spread scents. Likewise letting the cat get used to the new smells of the house and another cat before the initial meeting can make it more tolerable. For this reason it can be very useful to delay letting cats meet for a few days or even a week. During this time keep them in separate rooms allowing each to investigate the other's room and bed without actually meeting.

Using a pen or carrier for introductions

It is up to you to make both the new cat and the resident feel as secure as possible and prevent the newcomer from being chased or threatened (or occasionally the other way round). Problems can arise if initial meetings are allowed to deteriorate into a fight or chase. The best way to avoid this is to use a kittening pen for initial introductions. Kittening pens are metal mesh pens about 1m by 0.75m by 1m high with a door which can be left open or shut securely. The cat inside can see what is going on around it but feels safe inside its 'den'. You can put a blanket over the top initially to make the cat feel more secure if you think it feels vulnerable. The pen allows the cats to see each other, sniff through the bars and have a hiss and moan at each other without any attack or intimidation. The bars allow them to be close together but provide protection at the same time.

If you have taken on a new kitten then it can be very useful to use the larger pen as a base for the kitten to be kept in initially. Introductions can be made using the pen and you can shut the kitten in with its bed and litter tray if you are going out and don't want to leave it where it can get up to mischief or get into danger. The kitten can be shut in the pen at night (ensure water is available) with the other animals in the same room and they can get used to each other in safety.

If you can't get hold of a pen or crate then you can use a cat carrier or basket for initial introductions. Of course you won't be able to use it as a den to shut the cat or kitten in for long periods because it is too small, but it can be better than nothing.

How to use a carrier or pen for introductions

Place the new cat or kitten in the pen/carrier and let the resident cat come into the room. If you are using a cat carrier place it above ground level so the cats are not forced into direct eye contact with each other which can cause aggression. Let the resident cat come into the room and give it attention and calm reassurance. If the cat decides to run away without investigating the new cat do not force meetings but accept that things may take a little time - this is probably the type of cat which will not initiate aggressive meetings but will stay out of the way and gradually accept the new cat in the household over time. If the cats do show signs of aggression, distract them with a noise and then praise them for quiet encounters. You can use titbits to encourage the cats to stay near each other and accept the other's presence and make it a positive experience - you want the cats to associate each other with pleasant happenings, not shouting or chasing.

If you are using a large pen then you can allow the resident cat free access at times when the kitten/cat is in the pen over a number of days so that they gradually get used to each other. If you are using a carrier then you will need to be a little more proactive and orchestrate frequent meetings. With both methods you can start to feed the cats at the same time, the resident outside and the new cat inside the pen or carrier on the floor. Throughout this process there may be some hissing and spitting but this should gradually change into curiosity and gradual acceptance - this may take several days or weeks, depending on the individual cats.

Face-to-face meeting

When you feel the time is right to let them meet without the pen then you can again use food as a distraction. Withhold food so that they are somewhat hungry and then feed them in the same room. Choose a room where either cat can escape behind furniture or jump up high or hide if it wants to. Put down the resident cat's food and then let the new cat out of its basket to eat - you will have to judge how close they can be - don't attempt side by side initially! Be calm and reassuring and reward the behaviour you want with praise and titbits of a favourite food. Gauge how the cats are getting on - they may find their own spots and curl up for a sleep or you may need to keep the new one separate again for a little longer, using meals as a time for them to get together a bit more. Once you are sure they are not going to fight or chase then you can start to utilise the whole house - the cats will probably find places to sleep and routines which allow them to live peacefully in the same house and partake of all the benefits of food, warmth and attention while gradually becoming used to and accepting one another.

How long will it take?

It may only take a day or two or it may take several weeks for cats to tolerate each other. It may take months before the cats are relaxed with each other, but you are on your way to success if you reach the stage of a calm truce between them. It is amazing how a cold wet day outside will force even the worst adversaries together in front of the fire after a large bowl of food.

Introducing the dog

While dogs and cats have often been portrayed as enemies, it is usually a great deal easier to introduce a new cat to a dog than to another cat. While both animals may be wary of each other initially, they do not see the other as direct competition and can actually get on very well. If your dog is used to cats he may be excited initially at having a new one in the house but he will soon settle down and the novelty will wear off very quickly. He will begin to see the new cat as part of his pack. Many dogs will live happily with their own cats while chasing strange felines out of the garden, so you will need to take care until the cat is seen as one of the household.

Likewise if your new cat or kitten has previously lived with a dog then it will be much less likely to be frightened for long and will become confident around the dog more quickly.

However, initially safety must come first. You will need to keep everything under control until the dog and cat have got used to each other. Stroke the dog and cat separately but without washing your hands to exchange their scents. The cat will then take on the smell profile of the house and become part of the dog's pack. Once again the large pen is ideal for first meetings to keep the situation calm and the cat protected. Let the dog sniff the newcomer through the bars and get over its initial excitement. The cat may well hiss and spit but it is well protected. If you have a large pen then you can put the cat in this at night in the room where the dog sleeps and let them get used to each other for a few days or even a week, depending on how used to cats the dog is. Some dogs, especially those not used to cats or of an excitable or aggressive disposition, need extra special care for introductions. They should be kept as calm as possible on the lead and made to sit quietly. The new cat should be given a safe position in the room and allowed to get used to the dog and approach it if it wants. This may take quite some time and requires patience and rewards for the dog if it behaves well. For quieter dogs and those used to cats, introductions can be made by using a strong cat carrier. Keep the dog on a lead initially, place the carrier on a high surface and allow controlled introductions which are short and frequent. Most dogs will soon calm down when they realise the newcomer is not actually very interesting. Progress to meetings with the dog on a lead initially for safety. If your dog is rather excitable then take it for a vigorous walk first to get rid of some of its energy!

Breeds such as terriers or those breeds which like to chase, such as greyhounds, may need to be kept well under control until they have learned that the cat is not 'fair game'! Young pups are likely to get very excited and may try to 'play' with the new cat which is unlikely to want to join in! You may need to work hard to keep things calm and be aware that a sudden dash from the cat will induce a chase. Praise the dog for calm interactions, make it sit quietly and use food treats to reward the dog for good behavior. Again, associate the presence of the cat with reward for calm behavior. When you progress to access without the lead make sure there are places where the cat can escape to - high ledges or furniture it can use to feel safe. Never leave the dog and cat together unattended until you are happy they are safe together. The cat's food will be hugely tempting for any dog, so site it up and out of the way of thieving canine jaws! Likewise a litter tray can be pretty tempting and should be kept out of reach of the dog if it is likely to snaffle the contents.

This information sheet is produced by the Feline Advisory Bureau.

My superb Lil Chick' Team!
We work together well because we have a common vision-the love of animals.

Trimming a Cats Nails. Good luck! Nice knowing ya!

Nail Trimming (Cut my nails! I don't think so!!)

I never realized that there are so many people who have cats who are terrified of trimming their cats nails and insist that it can only be done by a vet, which I am sure runs a high price. Even other shelter volunteers look at me in awe when they notice the pair of clippers that I bring with me in my efforts to control the out of hand claw lengths at the shelter. You see, most of the cats will get their claws trimmed during their initial vet checks when coming into the shelter or when being placed in the adoptable areas. However, with the sheer number of animals the shelter sees, they just don't have time to keep up with the regular maintenance of the nails. That is where I come in. Now granted, it isn't an easy tasks, and there are some cats that I just wont try to do this on without the aid of extra hands, but I attribute this to my limited time with the cats and their lack of trust in me.

I found that the SPCA of San Francisco has a nice .pdf regarding the trimming of your cats nails. I will copy the relevant portion below, or you can read the full version.

From the San Francisco SPCA Cat Behavior Department

Nail Trimming

First of all, keep your cats’ nails trimmed short. This is easy to learn to do, and should be considered an essential part of your grooming responsibility. Have your vet show you how to do this the first time. This will prevent cats from damaging furniture (or skin!) as much if they do sneak a scratch.

Like our fingernails, cats’ claws grow continuously. Some cats may only need clipping every few months. Others may need it every few weeks. It is important to check your cat’s toenails at least once a month. It is easier to clip often, taking less of the claw than to wait too long and have to deal with little daggers. For us to trim our own nails regularly is usually a fairly simple, stress-free procedure. Doing the same for our cats can be more difficult.

Cats who stay indoors may need their nails trimmed more regularly than cats who go outside—even if they use their scratching posts often. Scratching on a post helps to remove the “dead” parts of the nail, thus making the nail thinner and sharper. Nails that have not been trimmed for a long time may grow in a circular shape causing the tips to grow into the cat’s paw pad, or they may become too thick which sometimes happens with older or less active cats. In this case the sheath doesn’t get removed so the claw becomes too wide and starts growing into the cat’s pad. This can be extremely painful and may require medical treatment and minor surgery. It can also lead to infection. This is why regular trimming is essential.

Some Important Tips

· Handling your cat’s paws regularly, when he’s relaxed will allow him to become used to the feeling of having his paws touched. He may then be less upset at claw clipping time.

· Ask someone to help you; it is much easier than trying to hold a struggling cat and wield clippers simultaneously. A “scruff-hold” can be used to restrain the cat. This involves firmly, yet gently restraining the cat by holding his or her scruff and supporting the rest of the cat’s body. While one person holds, the helper can do the actual clipping.

· Before you attempt it on your own, have your veterinarian demonstrate nail trimming for you.

· Choose a time when your cat is calm—naptime may be the best. It is possible that you may only be able to do one toe at a time, especially at first.

· Get appropriate clippers for cats’ claws – do not use human nail clippers or scissors!

How To Do It

· Check the cat’s paws for dirt; although they usually keep their own feet clean, you will want to be able to see the claw clearly. You can extend the cat’s nail by picking up the cat’s foot and gently applying a little pressure on the top and bottom of the toe just behind the nail.

· Make sure there is enough light. Having the cat’s paw between the source of light and yourself makes it much easier to see where you need to cut.

· Keep the clippers perpendicular to the nail. Look for the “quick” in the cat’s nail. Notice how far into the nail the quick extends. (The quick is a vein. You can see it as the pinkish area inside the nail.)

The clipper is best placed about 1/8 inch forward of the quick. If your cat will sit still long enough, you may want to gently file the tips after cleaning.

If You Trim The Nail Too Close

Your cat may give a cry and try to pull away from you. You may observe a small bit of blood on the end of the nail. Wipe the blood away with a tissue or paper towel. Dab some super glue, corn starch or styptic powder (available in pet stores) on the tip to stop the bleeding. In the future, you will want to cut the nails a little further away from the quick.

Reposted from a blog by Gummyworm

Humane Society Silicon Valley: Busting the Top 5 Myths about Rabbits

Humane Society Silicon Valley: Busting the Top 5 Myths about Rabbits: "By Alexandra League, HSSV Volunteer February is National Adopt-a-Rabbit month and if you’re thinking about adopting a floppy-eared friend,..."

Living on the Edge! Should I dare bathe my cat?

Cat Bathing-There are some dissenting views on this issue but in general there is usually no reason to bathe your cat especially a short haired indoor cat. Cats spend a large percentage of their days grooming themselves and they are experts at it. Using their barbed tongues they lick dirt and debris off their fur in order to keep it clean and odor free. Cats with long hair may require the occasional bath if their fur gets too oily. Their fur can get too oily based on climate conditions and the individual skin of the cat. There are also occasional times when your cat’s fur may get excessively dirty due to some mishap that the cat has gotten itself into. In some of these cases it may be necessary to give your cat a bath.

You should know right off the bat that almost all cats hate baths, so be prepared. Here are some tips to make the experience easier:

• Cat baths are smoother when 2 people are bathing the cat. One holds the cat while the other bathes the cat. Bathing the cat should be done in the bathroom where you can close the door to prevent escapes. Noise (like rushing bath water) is always an issue for the cat so anything to keep the noise level down will help.
• Preparation is everything – Run the bath water BEFORE you put the cat
• in the bath and make sure the water is not too hot and not too cold. The height of the water should reach the cat’s underbelly.
• A rubber bathmat placed in the tub will give the cat something to grip when it gets nervous and is a good idea.
• Use a cat shampoo recommended by your vet, groomer or other qualified pet professional.
• Do NOT wet the cat’s head. Instead use a moist washcloth or towelette if the cat’s face and head are dirty. GENTLY wet the cat from neck to bum using a cup or small pail with the bath water itself and start shampooing at the neck and move toward the bum. Then wash the legs.
• Meowing and yowling at this point are normal unless your cat is mute,
• in a coma, or practically dead. Just continue rubbing in the suds gently. Don’t use too much shampoo.
• The rinsing is the most important part as shampoo left on a cat’s skin will make your cat scratch itself thereby irritating its skin. Start draining the bath water. While it is draining, start rinsing the cat’s fur with the remaining bath water using cup or small pail. This gets the ‘big suds’ off. Use or buy a cheap shower attachment for this next part. With warm water from the shower attachment, rinse and rub the fur well from neck to bum. Once you think it’s clean do it again quickly making sure there is no shampoo residue.
• While in the tub put a towel all around kitty and start gently rubbing
• all around its body. It must be a gentle rub or pat down because especially in a longhaired cat, you don’t want the rubbing to create new knots. Remove kitty from the tub and use another towel to further absorb water from the fur.
• If you have a hair dryer that does NOT make too much noise you can try rubbing the fur while blow drying. Make sure that if your cat is NOT completely dry that you put it in a WARM room so that it does not catch a chill and get sick. This CAN happen easily.

Note: It is 100% normal for the cat to start licking its fur immediately after you’ve finished all your hard work.

There are many other creative techniques for bathing cats. Another one that makes good sense is the shallow buckets technique. Buy 5 cheap shallow buckets. Fill them all so the height reaches the cat’s underbelly. Put the cat in the first bucket and start shampooing – The next 4 buckets are rinsing buckets
where using your hands you rinse the suds off kitty as you transfer the lucky feline from bucket to bucket. Make sure all the suds have been removed and dry the cat well.

Get Your Dog to Help You With Your New Year's Resolution!

Statistically, most of us don't stick to New Year's resolutions for more than a week. We simply try to do things that aren't realistic.

It may become easier to be true to our resolution when we involve our dogs. Most adults can use more exercise, fresh air and time with their pets.

A commitment to a daily walk, jog, or visit to the park with your pooch is easy to make as this resolution comes with the reward of both fun and fitness. There is simply no comparison between hours on a treadmill versus a refreshing hike with your pup. It won't take long before your dog gets into the daily routine and he or she will soon be bringing the leash to you at the appointed time. Then you won't be able to give up on your resolution as those puppy dog eyes will make sure that your time together is not neglected.

Lil' Chick turns 4 April 2011!!
Thank you to all for making us such a success!

HOME STYLE SMALL PET BOARDING

Yes, we do offer some small animal pet boarding.
Bunny, Guinea Pigs, Birds, Turtles, Hamsters, etc
Email us aj@lilchick.com with particulars.

10 Tips to Help Winterize Your Pets

As the weather turns cold, it is important
to consider how seasonal
changes affect your pets. The following
tips will keep your pets safe
when the temperature dips.

• Keep pets inside as much
as possible. Young pets, old
pets and short-haired pets
are more vulnerable to cold
weather and should not be
left outside unsupervised.

• If your pet has to be kept
outside, provide shelter for
it. Add straw for additional
insulation from the cold and
provide a snug, warm bed
that does not sit directly on
the ground.

• Provide your pet with extra
food and water, in plastic
bowls, when outside for
extended periods of time.

• Ice-melting chemicals and salt
can irritate and burn the pads
of your pet’s paws. Thoroughly
wipe off your pet’s paws once
it has returned inside.

• Clip the long hair on the
bottom of your dog’s feet
to prevent build up of ice
balls that can be painful and
difficult to remove.

• Trim nails regularly. It
is difficult to maintain solid
footing with long nails in
icy conditions.

• Antifreeze is poisonous.
Thoroughly clean up any
spills and store household
chemicals out of your pet’s
reach. Consider using
products that contain
propylene glycol rather than
ethylene glycol.

• Bang on the hood of your
car before starting the engine.
Cats and wildlife may seek
warmth and climb into
the engine.

• Make sure your pet has a
warm place to sleep. All pets,
including small caged pets
need to be kept warm and
away from drafts.

• Contact your veterinarian
immediately if you suspect
your pet has frostbite or
hypothermia.

Following these winter-proofing tips
will help keep your pets healthy,
happy and safe during the cold winter
months.

LIL' CHICK PET SITTERS IS HIRING!

COME JOIN LIL' CHICK's TEAM OF PET SITTERS!

Looking for Pet Sitters & Dog Walkers who live and can do pet sitting in: Sunnyvale, San Jose, Los Gatos, Saratoga, Willow Glen, Campbell, Cambrian, etc.

Please email me your resume aj@lilchick.com

Qualifications:

Must have some pet sitting & dog walking experience.

Must have a flexible schedule.

Must be able to work holidays, weekends, AM and PM sits.

Must have a laptop or computer with internet access.

Must have a smart phone-iPhone, Blackberry, etc. and be able to use it.

Must have a good communication verbal and written skills.

Must have a clean DMV record.

Must be mature, dependable and have the ability to follow through.

Must have the ability to work independently and as a team player.

Must be physically fit.Must enjoy working outside even in all weather conditions.

Must be professional in appearance and communication.

Must be able to work AM/PM, weekends, holidays and overnight pet sits at pets home.

Lil' Chick offers the best commission split in the Bay Area Pet Sitting Industry.

Lil' Chick sponsored group health insurance available for all pet sitters.

Lil' Chick is an Equal Opportunity Pet Sitting Company.

Thank you for your interest in Lil' Chick Pet Sitters.

Lil' Chick Pet Sitters

Pawsitively Purrfect 4 your pets!

408.839.7502

http://www.lilchick.com/

aj@lilchick.com

http://www.lilchick.com/

http://www.lilchick.com/

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Lil' Chick is hiring! I am looking for qualified candidates ALWAYS!
Please email me a resume or work history please aj@lilchick.com
Thank you!

Happy-Thanksgiving-from-Lil--Chick-Sitters

Lil' Chick Grand Canyon 2010 HIKE FUNDRAISER BENEFITING WWW.THERABBITHAVEN.ORG AND WWW.HSSV.ORG.

Lil' Chick Grand Canyon Hike to Help Shelter Pets Slideshow: Lil'’s trip from San Jose, California, United States to Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona was created by TripAdvisor. See another Grand Canyon National Park slideshow. Create a free slideshow with music from your travel photos.

Lil' Chick Hike-A-Thon gets more exposure. Thank you Jennifer!

Local animal lover hikes Grand Canyon to help Bay Area shelter animals:


Please pass on the link and help raise funds for HOMLESS ANIMALS at The Rabbit Haven
http://www.therabbithaven.org
and The Humane Society Silicon Valley
100% raised goes to the shelters: htttp://www.hssv.org/lilchick

Lil' Chick Pet Sitters E-Zine!

Lil' Chick Pet Parent News!

LIL' CHICK wishes all a HAPPY EASTER!

The Lil' Chick Team~

The awesome Pet Sitters~
NATHAN, RACHAEL, MICHELLE, MALIA AND IRA.
Pawsitively Purrfect 4 your pets!
Lil' Chick is always looking for qualified candidates to join our team.
Check out our Facebook Fan Page:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lil-Chick-Pet-Sitters/56213658009?ref=ts

PREPARING FOR THE PET SITTER

Preparation is Key

Be prepared with all the information your pet sitter needs; gather this information in advance so you won't overlook any important details.


__ Schedules are important! Make your reservations for a pet sitter as far in advance as possible and remember to call the sitter if you are coming home later or earlier than expected. This will allow the pet sitter to plan for extra visits or serve additional clients.


__ Have everything necessary to care for your pet in one general and visible area. This includes food, treats, utensils, food and water bowls, medications, leash, can opener, toys, paper towels, cleaning supplies, garbage bags, litter and scoop, broom and dustpan and/or vacuum cleaner, towels (for rainy walks), newspapers (if paper training), watering can for plants, etc.


__ Provide extra food, litter and supplies just in case you are not able to return when anticipated.


__ Be sure to leave plastic bags for sanitary disposal of feces. Pet sitters are happy to perform this task while you’re away, but shouldn’t be expected to clean up accumulation prior to your absence!


__ Clean out the refrigerator before leaving to avoid smelly food spoilage, and wash any dishes in the sink to prevent ants or other pests.


__ For the comfort of your pet, adjust your thermostat before leaving on your trip and advise your pet sitter within what range to keep it. A closed-up home can get uncomfortably hot in a short time.


__ Tell the pet sitter if bathrooms or any other household areas are off limits to your pet and/or sitter. Secure access to these areas before leaving home. Also, make the pet sitter aware if your cat happens to love shredding the contents of the bathroom trashcan or if the toilet is prone to run or become clogged.


__ If you’re leaving anything specifically for your pet sitter; e.g., homegrown tomatoes on the counter, Peanut M & M candies, a monetary tip, be sure to leave a note. Otherwise, most pet sitters are so honest and trustworthy you may arrive home to find rotting tomatoes!


__ Will other people be checking on your pet? If so, help avoid confusion by making it clear what the pet sitter is responsible for and what other visitors will be entrusted to do.


__ Notify your veterinarian in writing that a pet sitter will be caring for your pet and authorize the vet to extend medical care during your absence if it becomes necessary.

Disaster Guide for Pet Owners

DISASTER GUIDE.PDF

Are you prepared for a disaster?

If a disaster strikes are you prepared to provide for your pet? Most disasters occur with little or no warning. Planning ahead is the key to survival in the event that you must evacuate your home.

Remember that Red Cross shelters cannot accept pets other than assistance or guide dogs because of health and safety reasons.

If at all possible, make arrangements to take your pet with you.

Make calls now to determine available boarding facilities and their requirements. Check with veterinary facilities for boarding availability. Contact friends or relatives out of the immediate area who might be willing to take in your pets temporarily.

Under no circumstances should you leave your pet outside in an unattended vehicle.

Have on hand pet carriers or crates for each pet. They should be large enough for your pet to stand and turn around in.

Make certain that your pet's vaccinations are current, especially for rabies. Have certificates ready to take with you if you must evacuate.

Make sure your pet is wearing a properly fitted collar with current license and rabies tag and an identification tag. Have a leash on hand to control your pet.

Have in readiness the following supplies:

Food and water bowls
Ample dry pet food in waterproof containers
Ample supply of special medications
Litter and litter pans for cats
Newspapers, towels, bags for disposal of pet wastes, cleaners and disinfectants
A current photo of each pet.
This is especially helpful for identifying your pet if you should become separated.
Leaving your pet at home alone will place your animal at greater risk for injury or loss.

However, if you must leave the pets behind, take the following precautions:
Prepare an area for your pet inside such as bathrooms and utility rooms, well away from windows.
Do not confine cats and dogs in the same area, even if normally they are friendly.
Keep small animals and birds securely caged
Make sure all pets are wearing well-fitted collars with proper identification
Leave enough dry food for at least three days in sturdy, non-spill able containers Water should be left in clean, sturdy containers that will not tip over
Birds must eat daily to survive. Leave their food in dispensers that regulate the amount of food and provide extra water
Place notices on doors advising what pets are in the house and where they are located
Hang leashes where they can readily be found
Provide a telephone number or location where you can be reached and the name and number of your vet.
Following a disaster, do not allow your pet outdoors alone for several days. Familiar sights and sounds may be gone and your pet could become confused and lost. Downed power lines and animals roaming at large may pose a threat to your pet's safety.

Do not allow your pet to drink outdoors from any open water supply until you are told by authorities that the water is safe. Provide your pet with bottled water.

If you or your animal is bitten by any animal, contact your local animal control and health department immediately.